Written by the TreasureGuide for the exclusive use of the Treasure Beaches Report.
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Source: Article linked below. |
High tides and recent tropical activity are intensifying beach erosion in Fort Pierce, creating large cliffs near the Inlet. Locals are increasingly calling on St. Lucie County for a long-term solution to the endless cycle of sand dumping and erosion.
Rough surf and high winds in mid-October currently leave beachgoers with dramatic, cliff-like views. The perpetual nature of the problem is concerning residents, including Adam Morris.
“I just never knew how much sand they put here. What is it every year, every other year, they’re coming with tons and tons of sand, and it keeps eroding away. I don’t know if that’s a waste of money or not. It’s kind of like, we could be spending the money a little better,” Morris states...
The County is currently planning a beach nourishment project for early 2026, where they will bring in nearly 100,000 tons of sand to the Jetty. However, long-time Fort Pierce resident Samantha Tusso says there needs to be a more permanent fix...
Here is the link for more about that.
Beach erosion worsens in Fort Pierce with no immediate solution
What do they say about doing the same thing over and over again and expecting a different result? Or maybe they expect the money to keep rolling in as long as the sand keeps rolling out.
It goes to show what happens when you create and inlet and a jetty that cuts off the flow of sand along the beach.
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A couple days ago I started what I hope to be a series on the topic of how coins move on a beach. This will be Part II.
In Part I, I talked about how the flow (or force) of water required to move sand is less than that required to move coins and other objects, and how different objects require different amounts of force to suspend and transport them.
As the amount of force decreases, the items are dropped out of suspension. It takes more force to get coins moving than it takes to keep sand moving. Coins drop out of suspension at greater force levels than sand. That might sound simple, and in a way, it is, but there are complications.
On the beach, the water from each wave moves two ways: first it moves up the beach and then back down, often interacting with other incoming or outgoing waves. In the simplest case, the water slows as it gets higher up on the beach until it drops whatever was being transported. I'll discuss other interactions or complexities later in the series. With the continually increasing and decreasing flows, interaction of waves, and the wide variety of objects, including different types of sand, the whole thing gets pretty complex.
I highly recommend that everybody become familiar with the chart I've posted several times before. It charts the suspension, transportation and sedimentation points for a variety of materials. It is really a great chart. I won't post the chart again, but if you aren't familiar with it, here is the link.
The picture below shows a wave breaking and sand suspended by a wave in a wave tank.
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Figure 2.a. |
The yellow arrow points to the turbulence where the wave breaks, and behind (to the left of) that you see the sand suspended (orange arrow) by the turbulence. There is more to see there than you might think.
When sand moves the sand at top is suspended first. The layers of sand under that do not move as much.
I got that clip from a video that will show you how the sand is suspended and how the beach is changed in a wave tank by a series of waves. It is well worth studying. You can skip over about the first third of the video. Here is the link.
Study of coastal erosion under wave action + improvement for design of coastal protection structures
I was watching the water running between the sand bar and beach as it flowed back into the ocean at low tide. I could clearly see that top layer of sand was moving faster than the sand below that, and the sand below that was moving less, and the sand under the moving layers was not moving at all. Of course, it isn't really layers. It is a gradual transition. To restate that: the sand on top will move most with, but as you go deeper the sand will be moving less until you reach the layer that is not moving at all.
The three arrows of the represent the movement of three layers of sand being moved by a current (flowing right to left).
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Figure 2.b. |
The top layer of sand is suspended the most and moves the fastest and the greatest distance. Layer B will not move as fast or far and layer C will be moved less.
Also, the grains in the top layer will also be spread apart the most. You can see that in the picture of the breaking wave shown above. The particles, or grains, closer to the stationary sand are closer together than those that are higher in the water. That picture shows a breaking wave, which is different than a flowing current.
With respect to coins, this level of current and sand movement, might well leave a coin unmoved. Any coin remaining in the stationary sand, would certainly not be moved.
Figure 2.A shows sand being suspended by a crashing wave. Figure 2.B represents a steady stream or current. If I had a good picture of sand suspended by a steady stream I would have used that. But you do need to be aware of the different cases. Fig. 2.b would be more similar to the water of a wave flowing up or down the beach after the wave broke.
The crash zone where the waves break will cause a lot of turbulence and suspend a lot of sand that is then transported by the water that flows up the beach. Coins would do the same thing, but only if there is great enough force to suspend and transport coins as well as sand. Also, remember that any coins in deeper layers of unmoved sand will not be suspended or moved.
For coins to be moved, in most cases, they must first be exposed. The force must be sufficient to first pick up the coins and then move them.
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I'll end Part II there. It isn't easy for me to make this clear. There are so many complications, that in most cases, I have to simplify things. And I make mistakes anyhow, as I saw when I went back to look at Part I. Most of my mistakes are typos, but not all.
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Surf Chart for the Fort Pierce Jetty Areas from SurfGuru. |