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Wednesday, May 31, 2023

5/31/23 Report - Tropical Disturbance In Gulf. Basics For Beach Detecting Conditions Forecasting and Some Resources.

Written by the TreasureGuide for the exclusive use of the Treasure Beaches Report.

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Source: nhc.noaa.gov
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The news today is one of the early tropical disturbances of this hurricane season.  It won't be a big deal, but it is the kind of thing we'll start watching as we hope for a break in summer beach conditions and a shot at beach treasures.

Here is the description and forecast for this disturbance.

An area of disorganized showers and thunderstorms is associated with 
a surface trough of low pressure interacting with an upper-level 
trough over the eastern Gulf of Mexico. Environmental conditions 
appear only marginally favorable for additional development over the 
next several days as the system meanders over the eastern Gulf of 
Mexico. The system is then forecast to move across the Florida 
Peninsula this weekend and emerge into the southwestern Atlantic 
Ocean by early next week. Regardless of development, the system 
could produce heavy rainfall and gusty winds over portions of the 
Florida Peninsula later this week...

I've been checking out windy.com for surf predictions, but it also is good for forecasting tropical weather.

Below is what windy.com forecasts for around late Sunday/early onday when the system has passed over Florida and the winds start to hit Florida from the backside of the system.


One Model Showing Good North Wind for Treasure Coast Around Midnight Sunday

As I said above, I'm not expecting a lot from  this one, but we could get some decent north wind and waves Monday.  While the GFS model is showing next to nothing for Monday, there are models that are showing some nice big waves for Monday.  I'll keep watching this to see how it works out.

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Here is a really good article that will help you read the surf reports.  Of course the surf reports are made for those interested in surfing, but if you understand the surf reports, that will also help you forecast beach conditions.

Here is the link.

How to read a surf report (surfertoday.com)

Below are some of the basics from that article.


Wave Height

The size of the wave is one of the most important variables of a surf report.

So the significant wave height reveals the average wave height - from trough to crest - of the highest one-third (1/3) of all waves during a 20-minute period...

Groundswells associated with long wave periods, typically 10-to-20 seconds, are known for bringing better and more powerful waves for surfing.

On the opposite side of the spectrum, wind swells with periods of less than 10 seconds will deliver poor-quality surf conditions.

Swell Direction

The direction from which the swell is coming can be expressed in degrees or cardinal points.

As a general rule of thumb, a coastline facing west will get bigger waves if the swell comes from W instead of NNW. That's why the angle of swell is so important.
Wind Speed and Direction

The wind is responsible for creating waves, but it can also destroy a day of surfing even if a groundswell hits the shore.

In most cases, onshore winds will decrease the quality of the waves, while a gentle and steady offshore wind will hold the face of the wave for a little longer before breaking...

I'll probably comment on some of the information in this article from time to time to help translate from surfing to beach metal detecting interests.

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“No eye has seen, no ear has heard, and no mind has imagined what God has prepared for those who love him.” (Cor. 2:9)

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Good hunting,

TreasureGuide@comcast.net